Captivating Caprivi

I apologise this is a bit late - the connectivity in the Caprivi was limited. We are actually back in JHB as I write this blog, spending time with our families. I have had to split the final part of our journey into 2 episodes as there was simply too much happening...........

The main rivers that run through the Caprivi region are the Okavango, Kwando and Zambezi/Chobe. After leaving the funky Ngepi camp on the Okavango, we drove eastwards towards the Kwando River to the Nambwa campsite in the Bwabwata Reserve. We popped into the Popo falls on the Okavango on the way out.These falls are small but significant as they mark the point where the river drops and slows, thus resulting in the great Okavango delta downstream.

After driving through a colossal storm (it was indeed the rainy season!) we turned into the dirt road and followed the ‘4X4 only’ signs to the campsite. I must admit using the words ‘rain’ and ‘Caprivi’ in the same sentence did make me nervous but in these parts the roads are all very sandy and are actually easier to drive on when a little wet. 

I was, however, comforted that we had asked some lads from Ngepi camp if they were keen to join us for a night at the campsite so I relaxed knowing that they could assist us if we got stuck. (Editorial note by John: Liz continues to have no faith in our car, or my driving skills...)

The campsite itself is idyllic. Each site is nestled alongside the Kwando River, secluded from the other sites and the ablutions provide hot showers in lovely surroundings  (I know it’s weird but in the world of camping, ablutions are very important!). 

We settled in and Sam and Henry arrived in time for evening sundowners on the wooden deck overlooking the vlei behind the camp. Red letchwe, kudu, broad billed rollers and Levalliants cuckoo all around us.  Early the next morning a game drive to long lagoon and horseshoe bend provided excellent sightings of an elephant herd drinking, playing and swimming in the water.  We also checked out Fort Doppies, a SADF ”recce” base which formed part of South Africa’s efforts in the Angola border war. If you do visit this area, do some reading beforehand of Fort Doppies as its history and stories are really fascinating and when you are standing in the middle of it, one can only imagine what these guys had to deal with on a daily basis.  It was there that I clapped eyes on the bird I had been searching for all year……the Racket-Tailed Roller!!

Fantastic sightings and each time we passed through their territory we would see them again, one time doing a mating display!

We spent 3 wonderful nights at the camp site. One hot afternoon, a thunder shower came over and we took the opportunity to get into our swimming costumes and enjoy the refreshing rain shower. That evening after dinner we went up to the wooden deck to watch an electrical storm. All shades of oranges and pinks were flashing in the distance, whilst right in front of us, the glow bugs were giving us another show of their own! I felt like I was in a disco – it was enchanting and we both watched in silence, admiring the wonders of nature.

Just across the river from Nwamba campsite is the Susuwe Island Lodge. John and I had arranged to spend some time there helping out where we could. We were delighted when we realised some family friends were also coming to stay there. We had a lovely time with Richard and Chris Patton and Kevin from Islands in Africa, looking for birds and enjoying the surroundings. We went boating down the river and on a few game drives and managed to see leopard twice, buffalo, elephant, monitor lizards and lots of cute baby warthogs and impala. 

The lodge is really stunning and surrounded by huge trees which give shelter to Swamp Boubou’s, Paradise Flycatchers, Brown Fire Finches and lots of weavers. The lodge was empty for most of the time we were there which meant it was peaceful and relaxing.

After 6 nights at the lodge we headed across the last stretch of the Caprivi and into Botswana at the Ngoma border post. We crossed the Chobe River and drove through the reserve to Kasane, a little town on the banks of the Chobe River.  We had decided to drive to the Savuti Reserve for a few nights but were worried that we had not booked anything. A trip to the park gate at Kasane was all it took to make the bookings (quite pricy mind you) and after a pleasant night at the Chobe Safari Lodge campsite, we headed out very early the next morning for Savuti.

It was a cool morning, the earth wet with fresh rain and as we drove along the tar road towards the reserve we passed a big herd of elephant crossing the road - lots of little ones and a few big mamma’s. We also passed buffalo, hyena, giraffe and jackals – it certainly was rush hour! The road to Savuti was a bit scary in places but John drove brilliantly and soon enough I had learned its better to keep my mouth shut than offer advice which is completely unfounded! (Editorial note by John: That’s better!)

Once through the reserve gate, you hit wall to wall mopane, sometime nerve wracking when you are in elephant infested bushveld! Then the odd open plain appears and a few hilly outcrops. Finally we arrived at the Savuti campsite which was particularly special as the Savuti channel was actually flowing. For those of you who may not know, the Savuti channel has flowed sporadically over the past 100 years, more often dry than flowing. The channel is flowing now for the first time in 12 years I believe. We were very excited to explore the area and look for the lion that hunt elephant, the huge herds of antelope and zebra and the open marsh teeming with birdlife that you see on National Geographic.

Alas our 2 day adventure was a bit of a let down with no predators, 1 zebra, 40 wildebeest and 5 elephant!! But we did see all the small things like wonderful mongoose, owls, tortoises and birds.  The scenery around Savuti is wild, rugged and wet with marshland, rocky outcrops and bushveld all melting into each other and providing points of interest around each corner.

For example we came across a baobab which seems to have taken a very serious knock over the decades – supposedly by elephant. The good rains meant that some roads were off limits, and even John admitted defeat when the road crossed the flowing Savuti channel.  Some of the smaller game roads are a bit overgrown which resulted in a myriad of wondrous insects landing in my lap as the branches scraped and bashed along the car. We also occasionally got dived bombed by cicadas who were very busy flying among the mopane Trees. The game roads in this area are not marked at all so its all a bit of an adventurer when you turn down a small track, not knowing what you are going to find! There are also very few people around which makes it all the more exciting (and no cell phone signal which is perfect).

After 2 days we headed back to Kasane for a visit to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and then onto Impalila Island Lodge located on an island between Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe!! More on that in our next blog…

Love Liz

Here is the "worm" detailing where it is we have been this year: