I must have re-written this blog 3 times now, each time
changing the mood to suit our new surroundings. That is our new life out here
in Botswana – each month we change camps and get to know our new environment.
John and I were back in Johannesburg for our holiday in August and I can
finally put these past few months into perspective and try to give friends and
family an idea of our new lifestyle. So apologies for the lack of reading
material but here forth the latest instalment... (with more to come I promise)
John and I are the new relief management couple for ‘Great
Plains Conservation’, a company which own and run 3 camps in Botswana: Selinda
Camp, Zarafa Camp and Duba Plains Camp. Our job requires us to stand-in for the
camp mangers while they are on their month’s leave. This means getting to know
the staff, guides, camp layout and facilities, activities and ultimately
ensuring the guests have a wonderful time. This is a totally new lifestyle for
us and one which we are embracing whole heartedly. We have embarked on a new
cultural experience as well, getting to know Botswana customs and the language,
of which the staff are our teachers. We were encouraged that our resident and
work permits were obtained in record time and we plan to make the most of life
in the bush.
April – July 2011:
Getting to these camps is the first part of the adventure,
both for us and for guests. It requires flying over the most magnificent scenery
in a tiny plane that shudders and shakes and requires one to pack very lightly
in a small bag – something many guests struggle with and often end up having to
re-pack in the airport. For me these plane trips are bitter sweet, as I watch
gobsmacked the scenes below me, I also have to clutch my stomach and keep an
eye on the sick bag. Once you land, you are driven through pristine wilderness
to one of the beautiful camps, all of which have simple, practical layouts and
will ensure your stay is comfortable and memorable.
Although technically winter and while it certainly feels
that way in the morning and evening, the days during April to June are still
very warm and calls for a layering effect starting with wearing everything you
have and getting down to skirt and t-shirt and slops by 10:00. It’s rather
amusing to watch the guests go out all bundled up then return half the size and
carrying mounds of clothing. However as
winter drew on, John and I had to order an emergency package of a hot water
bottle, thermals and tracksuits to survive the cold. We forgot that weather
penetrates canvas tents rather easily. Likewise
some of the guests don’t realise that Africa gets so cold and sales of beanies,
scarves and fleeces skyrocket in winter.
Each day starts out in the dark and on particularly cold
mornings, it can be a challenge to motivate oneself to get going. Traffic on
the way to the office normally consists of dodging baboon excrement (either
coming from above or freshly made on the ground), checking any elephant road
blocks up ahead and listening out for any alarm calls from the francolins. The first port of call is usually the fire to
warm up and grab a cup of tea. Friendly exchanges of how one slept and the
weather are made with the morning team while defrosting and preparing for the
guests.
At Selinda camp, the sun rises over the distant lala palms, a
magnificent welcome to each day that one never tires of. At Zarafa it’s the sunset over the lagoon
that is so incredible – watching the colours change and listening to the hippos
sloshing around in the water. Savouring
these moments of peace between the chaos are important to balance out the
lifestyle out here.
While at Selinda, the pace and concentration are definitely
way up there. With 18 guests coming and going, you need to be on top of
movement for the day, activities and camp issues. I think I lost a few kilo’s
while there as I was walking at least 5km a day, usually at pace, all around
camp, checking rooms, greeting guests, back to the office etc. The pace at
Zarafa camp is noticeably different which is why the relief management position
is so appealing to us – every month a
change in scenery, people, animals and momentum! I was initially concerned that
I didn’t have a watch and wouldn’t know when guests are due in, when tea time
was etc. However I have found that if you plug into the surrounding activities
you get a sense of time and you start to feel the rhythm of life in the camp.
The staff who have been doing this for many years seem to know exactly what is
meant to happen when and things always happen right ‘on time’.
The wildlife out here is amazing to say the least. Both
camps have an extraordinary amount of movement through camp. Mostly this is
from elephant, hippo, baboons, mongoose, honey badgers,kudu and impala but
occasionally we have some special visitors. This is one place where you can’t
afford to be daydreaming while walking around as we have both realised when we
find ourselves facing an elephant’s bum! Some of these big boys feel right at
home in camp and no matter what you do, they will move along in their own time
and at their chosen pace, doing some serious landscaping along the way.
At Selinda there is a local hippo called Scarface – so named
because he was in an almighty fight and has this massive gash on his side which
is still healing. He got kicked out of his pod and so seems to have adopted the
camp and staff as his new home. As such, he has no problems walking through
camp, past the kitchen and office, among the staff houses and generally wherever
he pleases. He is often seen walking around during the day and on several
occasions I almost ran right into him. I can tell you hippos are huge when they
are a few meters from you. Luckily he seems pretty chilled out and I have
mastered the art of changing direction and side stepping to the nearest man
made structure.
At Zarafa we were treated to a few visits from the wild dog
who realised that the impala like to hang out at camp. On many occasions they
have ran straight through camp, one a few meters away from me and another John
saw while he was showering! One evening a single dog chased a young impala into
the lagoon right off the main deck. The dog was reluctant to follow and so the
impala survived another day (well we like to think it did, no one actually saw
it swim back out!!). The dogs have denned on the reserve so guests have been
thrilled to see 15 little bundles of fur running around with mommy. John took a
drive out one morning and these are some of the pics of the little ones – we
are looking forward to watching them grow up.
Another exciting morning we had a honey badger kill a large
python between two guest tents. No one was particularly keen to go and remove
the snake as the badger kept growling and there isn’t a person in Africa who doesn’t
respect these awesome creatures. Eventually when it was starting to smell and the
badger had disappeared, the remains of the snake was safely relocated! We were treated
to a ‘kill’ at tea time when a spotted bush snake grabbed a tree frog on the
roof above our heads. Granted the timing was not great and some guests did not
think this sight was too delightful, but it just shows there is always
something exciting happening if you just take the time to sit and observe.
For John adjusting to the lack of technology has been surprisingly
easy. Guests will often comment about the lack of media out here, but to be
honest we haven’t missed it much. There is so much else going on around us and
lots to absorb. The bush almost becomes
the daily reality show with moments of excitement, tragedy and tenderness. You
get very accustomed to the local wildlife and their habits. Watching newly
hatched francolins go from a group of 8 to 1 was very sad but then watching
that 1 francolin grow and get as cheeky as its mother was also very sweet.
I didn’t realise the extent of what living away from a city
and cut off from shops can do to you. When we receive a package off a plane
it’s super exciting (well for me at least), and no one dares open them up
before me! It’s normally just some boring
toiletries we ordered from town or mail for the staff, but nonetheless one
never knows what surprises awaits one. Our primary means of communication is
the radio, but obviously everyone can hear you so we often have a chuckle when
people forget this fact or when someone sounds particularly animated.
The guests that come through the camps have been an
assortment of nationalities and personalities.
The majority are from the USA but at one stage we had 2 sets of Japanese
groups who were so cute and happy, even though they could speak no English, the
gestures and smiles went a long way in communicating and by the end of the week
most of the staff had polished their Japanese. I was still trying to get the
hang of Setswana and ended up speaking a mixture, both badly executed! It’s also really great to see how the
language of the bush transcends all cultures. John absolutely loves instilling
a passion about the bush into each visitor to whom Africa is new. Even the
trees and insects can be exciting if you communicate it effectively. Of course,
in some cases, only a lion or leopard will do!
Managing such a camp also involves managing the staff and
spending so much time in the bush, the staff become part of your family. Much
time is spent as a nurse, confidant, shoulder to cry on or even battering ram
as the ins and out of lodge life play out.
The water levels around the area continue to rise, bringing
with them challenges and ever changing scenery. At Selinda the boat station is
almost underwater and one can just about take a boat right up to the lodge.
Many of the roads are impassable and our airstrip is currently closed due to
flooding. It’s amazing to watch on a daily basis the slow creeping of the water
levels. For John these challenges have to be dealt with on a daily basis as
vehicles with guests get stuck and punctures happen regularly so lots of rescue
missions being sent out. At Duba Plains driving through water is a daily event
and logistics in camp can be challenging. Ensuring fuel, gas and food supplies
reach camp are priority and take careful planning.
For each guest that comes into camp, we try and ensure they
all experience the bush and the camp in a way that they will remember forever.
The animals do this on their own with some amazing sightings this past 3
months. We also have an assortment of activities and events designed to produce
the ‘wow’ factor. And when the guests are blown away, it’s an awesome feeling
for us. There is a pulse to camp life,
busy when guests are around, and quiet when they are out. I have started to enjoy the quiet moments in
camp when guests are out and staff are resting.
One evening, as I sat on the deck, glass of wine in my hand,
warm fire at my feet, chirping insects and hippos for company, I drew upon a
piece of knowledge that had lodged itself somewhere in the back of my memory:
that making others happy invariably makes you happy. I had just returned from
taking guests to their tent where a hot bubble bath was run, champagne on ice,
candlelit room and gas fire ablaze. Their reaction was superb. So I had one of
life’s little moments of happiness, as a smile crept uncontrollably to my face.
I sat in my bubble of contentment and savoured the moment. I encourage everyone
to try out the theory – go out there today and make someone happy, but
intentionally and selflessly, and focus on your reaction and emotions..
..pretty simply route to happiness…
